Trekking in Sikkim Darjeeling
Sikkim Peak Climbing

Sikkim Peak Climbing

Sikkim Peak Climbing

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Sikkim Peak Climbing – A Brief History

Peak Climbing in Sikkim was first undertaken in the year 1899 by Douglas W. Freshfield. He was also the first European to explore and reach the Green Lake Basin, the base of Mount Kanchenjunga in 1899.

But, the first known Mountaineering in Sikkim was done by a German Expedition Team led by Paul Bauer. When he made the first attempt to reach the summit of Kanchenjunga in 1929. Thus, began the history of Mountaineering and Peak climbing in Sikkim.

Conquering Mount Kanchenjunga (8586m) – A Brief History

In 1955 Charles Evans conquered Mount Kanchenjunga from the Nepal side. Subsequently, Major Prem Chand from the Indian Armed forces reached a few feet below the summit of Mount Kanchenjunga in the Year 1977. In 1991, an Indo Japanese team of climbers led by Hukam Singh and Yoshio Ogata reached the peak of Kanchenjunga.

Conquering the smaller Peaks of Sikkim Himalayas

Peak Climbing in Sikkim was not restricted to Mount Kanchenjunga only. Famous  mountaineers have undertaken Mountaineering in Sikkim within the Sikkim Himalayas. For instance, Mr. C.R. Cooke, a British climber was the first to conquer Mount Kabru in the Year 1935. Similarly, Pyramid Peak was first conquered in 1949 by a Swiss R. Dittert. A.M. Kallas a British National climbed Paunhri in 1911.

The summit of Siniolchu was first reached by a German in 1936. It was later again climbed by the famous Sikkimese Everester Sonam Gyatso.

Pandim was climbed in 1993 by a team from the Sonam Gyatso Mountaineering Institute. Rathong was conquered by an Indian climbing Team in 1964.

Sikkim Peak Climbing More information 

Five Peaks that are opened for Peak Climbing in Sikkim vide notification No.25/HOME/2006 dated 20/03/2006 issued by the Home Department, government of Sikkim for the purpose of Mountaineering in Sikkim. These Peaks are declared Alpine Peaks and are Open for Peak Climbing in Sikkim.

         Name of the Peak                          Location         Grade
1Freys Peaks (5830mts)Chuarikhang valley – West Sikkim         AD+
2Mount Thinchenkhang (6010mts) Thansing Valley – West Sikkim            D
3Mount Jopuno (5936mts) Thansing Valley – West Sikkim            D+
4Lama Lamani (5700mts) Thansing Valley – West Sikkim          AD+
5Lama Wangden Lachen (5868mts) Lachen Valley – North Sikkim          AD
6Mt. Brumkhangse (5635mts) Yumthang Valley – North Sikkim             D

Under the Places of Worship (Special Provisions) Act 1991 and the State Government’s Notification No.59.Home/98 dated 26.10.1998, the following peaks are classified as Sacred and restricted for any form of Mountaineering  in Sikkim

  1. Gabur Gangtsen
  2. Mt. Pauhunli
Following Royalty (Peak Fees) shall be levied for all expeditions in Sikkim

For Foreign Expedition Teams :

  • 1-4 members –  US$500 per  Team
  • 1-8 members – US$700 per Team
  • Thereafter   US$75 for every  additional  member.

For Domestic Expedition Teams the following amount shall be levied for Peak climbing in Sikkim

  • 1-8 members – IRs.15,000 per Team
  • Thereafter   IRs.1500 for every  additional  member.

For  Local Expedition Teams the following amount shall be levied 

  • 1-8 members – IRs.3000  per  Team
  • Thereafter   IRs.300  for  every  additional  member.

The following minimum Insurance Coverage is compulsory for all activities for Mountaineering in Sikkim

  • Expedition  members – IRs.3,00,000  per  person
  • Camp  Crews – IRs.1,00,000 per  person
  • Porters – IRs.50,000  per  person
  • Pack  Animals – IRs.20,000  per  animal

Number of Teams allowed in a Year

A total of 10 teams for the purpose of mountaineering and Peak climbing in Sikkim (6 foreign and 4 domestic) shall be permitted per year. However, the State Government may permit additional expedition, if such situation arises.

Permits and Formalities

Permits for all Peak Climbing in Sikkim will be issued by the Home Department. The Peak fees has to be paid in Gangtok, Sikkim, after the permit is granted by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, New Delhi. Foreign expeditions have to book the peak along with a peak fee.

Best Season 

Best Season for Mountaineering in Sikkim is from May to October.  But After having said that, months of April – May is a good window for Sikkim Peak Climbing activities because of mild weather and very less rainfall.

October – November is recommended as the best season for all activities for Mountaineering in Sikkim Himalayas, when the area surrounding immediately after the just concluded monsoon rains is crisp and fresh and the Skies very clear.  

Role of Indian Mountaineering Foundation 

Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) is the country’s apex body that helps in organizing / sponsoring Peak Climbing in Sikkim. It is mandatory for all teams for Sikkim Peak climbing to take a liaison officer from the Sikkim Mountaineering Association along with the liaison officer from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation.

IMF functions as a clearing house for foreign expeditions in Sikkim and deputes a liaison officer to accompany foreign climbers. All requests have to be forwarded to IMF for clearance. It is Recommended that all Concerned Departments should be Notified Six Months in Advance before the Start of Mountaineering in Sikkim

Agency Organizing Peak Climbing in Sikkim is responsible for all rescue operations during emergencies and accidents and are looked after by the Liaison officer.

A Brief Itinerary for Climbing Mount Thinchenkhang and Frey’s Peak

Route the base camps  of Mount Thingchinkhang (6010m) and Mount Jopunu (5603m) starts from Yuksom in West Sikkim. These two Peaks fall in South of Thansing Valley under Kanchenjunga National Park. One can view these Peaks from the Onglathang Valley while trekking to Goechala Pass.

These two peaks has been declared open for the purpose of Mountaineering by the Government of Sikkim in 1990 and is graded in the” D “Category as Alpine Expedition. In order to summit these peaks one has to go through an agency Registered and recognized by the Tourism Department Government of Sikkim.

Permits for minimum of Two Persons will be issued after paying the Peak fees as prescribed by the Tourism Department with approval from the Indian Mountaineering Association.

We are a recognized and registered Agency in Sikkim. With more than 20 Years of experience organizing Mountaineering and Peak climbing activities in Sikkim Himalayas, we go beyond expectations. So you can depend on us to make your climbing a success.

TRIP FACTS

  • Minimum No. of Participants : 2 Pax.
  • Total No. of Days : 18 Days.
  • Starting Point: Bagdogra Airport/NJP Rail Station/Nepal Border.
  • Ending Point : Bagdogra Airport/NJP Rail Station/Nepal Border.
  • Best Season : April – June & September to December.
  • Availability : Only private Expedition can be arranged for a minimum of two persons on request on a date of your choice.

Itinerary for  Mount Thinchingkhang Expedition with a side trek to Goechala Pass

Day 01 : Arrive at Bagdogra Airport/NJP Rail Station. meet Guide and Drive to Gangtok. Overnight Hotel.
Driving Time : 4Hrs. Altitude :1760m

Day 02 : Around Gangtok. Acclimatization Day. Overnight Hotel(B/B only).

Day 03 : Drive to Yuksom (Trek Head/1760m/5Hrs Drive). Overnight Lodge/Hotel.

Day 04 : Trek Starts. Trek to Bakhim / Tchoka (2970m/13Km/5-6Hrs). Overnight Tents.

Day 05 : Trek to Dzongri (4030m/9Km/5-6Hrs). Overnight Tents.

Day 06 :  Rest Day/Acclimatization Day in Dzongri. Take a side trek to Dzongrilla Pass. Overnight Tents.

Day 07: Trek to Lamunee (4164m/11Km/5-6Hrs). Overnight Tents.

Day 08 : Trek to Goechala Pass and trek back to Lamunee. After Lunch trek up to Toriphuley (4304m) our Base Camp for Thinchenkhang Expedition in Sikkim. Overnight Tents.

Day 09 : Acclimatization Day. Trek up to Advance Base Camp I (5400m/3Km) with the Sherpa  & set up Camp. Return to Toriphuley our Base Camp. Overnight Tents.

Day 10 : Ferry Goods & climbing Equipment & food to Advance Base Camp. Overnight Tents.

Day 11 : Trek to  Summit Camp with Climbing Equipment, Tents and Food. Overnight Tents.

Day 12 : Keep an Extra day just in case weather does not permit Summiting the peak. Overnight Tents.

Day 13 : Keep an Extra day just in case weather does not permit Summiting the peak.

Day 14 : Summit Camp  to Summit &  Back to Advance Base Camp  to Toriphuley. Overnight Tents.

Day 15 : Trek Toriphulae to Kookrochoong. Overnight Tents.

Day 16 : Trek Kookrochoong  to Tchoka. Overnight Tents.

Day 17 : Trek Tchoka to Yuksom. Overnight Lodge / Hotel.

Day 18 : Drive to Kalimpong. Overnight Hotel / Home Stay.

Day 19 : Drive to Bagdogra Airport / NJP Rail Station for Final Departure. End of Mount Thinchenkhang Expedition in Sikkim.

Extension can be made to Darjeeling/ Nepal / Bhutan.

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  • Mount Thinchenkhang Expedition Cost : US$4380 per person.
  • Peak Fees (Included in the Cost) : US$500 (for a group of two persons ).
  • Thereafter  US$75 per additional member
  • Kanchenjunga National Park Fees(Included in the Cost) : US$250.
  • Fees for liaison Officer US$200 ( Included in the Cost).
  • Insurance for Pack Animals and Support Team (Included in the Cost).
  • Indian National kindly enquire within for costs & other information.

16 Days Frey”s Peak Itinerary for Peak Climbing in Sikkim

Frey’s Peak (5830m) is situated in Chaurikhang Valley in west Sikkim and falls under Khangchejunga National Park. One can view these Peaks from the the Dzongri Top. Frey’s peaks has been declared a Trekking Peak by Sikkim Govt.  in the Year 1990.

The route to Frey’s Peak Base Camp in Sikkim follows the route from Yuksom to Dzongri Ridge. From here the route then turns left towards Dzongrilla Pass and goes down into Bikhbari. Then the route slowly climbs towards the Himalayan Mountaineering Base Camp (HMI). HMI is a collection of small stone huts and a couple of big tin shades. This place is used by the HMI in Darjeeling to train aspiring climbers.

The route then goes past the HMI Base Camp and climbs upto the Rathong valley and dips down into the Chaurikhang Valley which is the Base Camp for Climbing Frey’s Peak.

TRIP FACTS

  • Minimum No. of Participants : 2 Pax.
  • Total No. of Days : 16 Days.
  • Starting Point: Bagdogra Airport/NJP Rail Station/Nepal Border.
  • Ending Point : Bagdogra Airport/NJP Rail Station/Nepal Border.
  • Best Season : April – June & September to December.
  • Availability : Only private Expedition can be arranged for a minimum of two persons on request on a date of your choice.

Itinerary  in Brief

Day 1:  Arrive at Bagdogra Airport. Drive to Gangtok(5 Hrs). Hotel(B/B only).
Day 2:  Acclimitization day in Gangtok.   Hotel(B/B only).
Day 3:  Drive to Yuksom(1760m/5Hrs). Lodge.
Day 4:  Trek to Bakhim(2975m/11Km). Camp.
Day 5:  Trek to Dzongri(3950m/9Km). Camp.
Day 6:  Rest Day in Dzongri / Acclimatization Day.                                                                                                       Day 7:  Trek to Ghatey Khola(3860m/9Km). Camp.
Day 8:  Trek to Chaurikhang and set Up Base Camp. Camp.
Day 9:  Acclimatization Day. Recee of the Summit & Back to Base Camp.                                                                 Day 10: Keep an extra Day in case of Bad weather
Day 11:  Summit Peak. Return to BC & Back to Ghatey Khola. Camp.
Day12:  Return Trek to Dzongri. Camp.
Day13:  Return Trek to Tchoka. Camp.
Day14:  Return Trek to Yuksom. Lodge.
Day15:  Drive to Kalimpong. Hotel / Home Stay.
Day16:  Drive to Bagdogra Airport/NJP Rail Station/Nepal Border for Final Departure.

COST : US$3450/Person

Peak Fees Extra as applicable : US$500

Indian Nationals Kindly enquire within for quotes in Indian Rupees

The following minimum Insurance Coverage is compulsory for all activities for Mountaineering in Sikkim

  • Team  Members – US$4300 / IRs.3,00,000  per  person
  • Camp  Crews – US$1500 / IRs.1,00,000 per  person
  • Porters – US$715/ IRs.50,000  per  person
  • Pack  Animals – US$300 / IRs.20,000  per  animal

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TOUR COST INCLUDES :

  • Twin Share Hotel Accommodation in Gangtok in Standard Hotel including Breakfast.
  • Lodge accommodation – twin share in Yuksom with common washroom & Rest room including breakfasts.
  • Kanchenjunga National Park Fees (US$250 )
  • 2 Sherpa Climbing Guide
  • Twin share tent with mattress during camping/trekking/Expedition.
  • Fully organized trek services with guide, porters, camping equipment.
  • All fixed three meals everyday during trekking/Camping/Expedition.
  • All road transport as per itinerary by jeep.
  • Service of an English speaking guide.
  • Entrance fees to monuments visited.
  • Trekking Permit & Inner Line Permits  for
  • Climbing Equipment-
  •  a). Climbing Rope – 100m
  •  b). Fixed Rope – 200m
  •  c). Carabiner -35pcs
  •  d). Plain Carabiner –  16pcs
  •  e). Rock Pitons – 8pcs
  •  f). Ice Pitons – 15pcs
  •  g). Snow  Bar – 4pcs
  •  h). Harness  Set.
  • i). Jumar.

Insurance for Porters, Pack Animals, Cook, Guide & other support Team.

  • 1). Camp  Crews – US$1500 / IRs.1,00,000 per  person
  • 2).Porters – US$715/ IRs.50,000  per  person
  • 3). Pack  Animals – US$300 / IRs.20,000  per  animals

DOES NOT INCLUDE :

  • Insurance for Climbing Member
  • Sleeping bag; personal clothing/equipment.
  • Lunches and dinners during hotel stays.
  • Bottled or alcoholic drinks.
  • Tips, client insurance, evacuation costs.
  • Any expenses of personal nature.

Note: The above itinerary is a sample, intended to give you a general idea of the likely trip schedule. Numerous factors such as weather, road conditions, physical ability of the participants etc. may dictate itinerary changes either before departure or while on the trail. We reserve the right to change this schedule in the interest of the trip participant’s safety, comfort and general well being.

(All relevant Terms & Conditions apply)

 

 

 

 

 

TOUR COST INCLUDES :

  • Twin Share Hotel Accommodation in Gangtok in Standard Hotel including Breakfast.
  • Lodge accommodation – twin share in Yuksom with common washroom & Rest room including breakfasts.
  • Kanchenjunga National Park Fees (US$250 )
  • 2 Sherpa Climbing Guide
  • Twin share tent with mattress during camping/trekking/Expedition.
  • Fully organized trek services with guide, porters, camping equipment.
  • All fixed three meals everyday during trekking/Camping/Expedition.
  • All road transport as per itinerary by jeep.
  • Service of an English speaking guide.
  • Entrance fees to monuments visited.
  • Trekking Permit & Inner Line Permits  for
  • Climbing Equipments

a).Climbing Rope – 100m.

b).Fixed Rope – 200m.

c).Carabiner -35Nos.

d).Plain Carabiner –  16 Nos.

e).Rock Pitons – 8 Nos.

f).Ice Pitons – 15Nos.

g).Snow  Bar – 4 Nos.

h).Harness  Set.

i).Jumar.

  • Insurance for Porters, Pack Animals, Cook, Guide & other support Team.

1). Camp  Crews – US$1500 / IRs.1,00,000 per  person

2). Porters – US$715/ IRs.50,000  per  person

3). Pack  Animals – US$300 / IRs.20,000  per  animals

DOES NOT INCLUDE :

  • Insurance for Climbing Member
  • Sleeping bag; personal clothing/equipment.
  • Lunches and dinners during hotel stays.
  • Bottled or alcoholic drinks.
  • Tips, client insurance, evacuation costs.
  • Any expenses of personal nature.

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(All Relevant Terms and Conditions Apply)

 

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