Sikkim Peak Climbing & Mountaineering
Sikkim Peak Climbing & Mountaineering
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Brief History of  Mountaineering in Sikkim

As per the records from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, Douglas W. Freshfield was the first European to explore & reach the base of Kanchenjunga from the Green Lake Basin in 1899.

Likewise, a German climbing team led by Paul Bauer made the first attempt to reach the summit of Kanchenjunga in 1929.  But, it was Charles Evans who reached a few feet below the summit of Kanchenjunga in 1955 from the Nepal side. Followed by Major Prem Chand from the Indian Army who reached a few feet below the summit of Kanchenjunga in the Year 1977. Finally, an Indo-Japanese mountaineering team led by Hukam Singh and Yoshio Ogata conquered the Kanchenjunga in the Year 1991.

Mr. C.R.Cooke a British Climber was the First Climber to Conquer Mt. Kabru in the Year 1935. The pyramid Peak was first conquered in 1949 by a Swiss R. Dittert.  A British A.M. Kallas, climbed the Paunhri in 1911. The summit of Siniolchu was first reached by a German in 1936. It was later again climbed by the famous Sikkimese Everester Sonam Gyatso. Pandim was climbed in 1993 by a team from the Sonam Gyatso Mountaineering Institute in Sikkim. Rathong was conquered by an Indian expedition in 1964.

Sikkim Peak Climbing-Peaks that are opened for Mountaineering 
Government has opened the following peaks vide notification No.25/HOME/2006 dated 20/03/2006 issued by the Home Department, Government of Sikkim for the purpose of Mountaineering & Peak Climbing. These Peaks are declared Alpine Peaks and are Open for Alpine Expedition.

         Name of the Peak                           Location          Grade
1 Freys Peaks(5830 m) Chuarikhang valley – West Sikkim          AD+
2 Mt.Thinchenkhang(6010 m)  Thansing Valley – West Sikkim             D
3 Mt.Jopuno(5936 m)  Thansing Valley – West Sikkim             D+
4 Mt.Lama Lamani(5700 m)  Thansing Valley – West Sikkim           AD+
5 Mt.Lama Wangden Lachen(5868 m)  Lachen Valley – North Sikkim           AD
6 Mt.Brumkhangse(5635 m)  Yumthang Valley – North Sikkim              D

Under the Places of Worship (Special Provisions) Act 1991 and the State Government’s Notification No.59.Home/98 dated 26.10.1998, the following peaks are classified as Sacred 

  1. Gabur Gangtsen
  2. Mt. Pauhunli
Following Royalty shall be levied for Sikkim Peak Climbing & Mountaineering

For Foreign Mountaineering Team 

  • 1-4 members –  US$500 per  Team
  • 1-8 members – US$700 per Team
  • Thereafter   US$75 for every  additional  member.

For Domestic Mountaineering Team

  • 1-8 members – Rupee 15,000 per Team
  • Thereafter   Rupee 1500 for every  additional  member.

For local Mountaineering Teams

  • 1-8 members – Rupee 3000  per  Team
  • Thereafter   Rupee 300  for  every  additional  member.

The following minimum Insurance Coverage is compulsory for all Peak Climbing and Mountaineering in Sikkim

  • Expedition  members – Rs.3,00,000  per  person
  • Camp  Crews – Rs.1,00,000 per  person
  • Porters – Rs.50,000  per  person
  • Pack  Animals – Rs.20,000  per  animal
A total of 10 Mountaineering Teams (6 foreign and 4 domestic) shall be permitted per year. However, the Sikkim Government may issue additional permit additional to mountaineering teams, if such situation arises. Permits for the above mentioned peaks will be issued by the Home Department. The amount mentioned below has to be paid in Gangtok, Sikkim, after the permit is granted by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, New Delhi.

Best Season for Mountaineering and Peak Climbing in Sikkim is from May to October. Foreign Mountaineering teams will have to book the peak along with a peak fee minimum three months in advance. The Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) is the country’s apex body that helps in organizing/sponsoring mountaineering and Peak climbing in Sikkim.

It is mandatory for all peak climbing teams to take a liaison officer from the Sikkim Mountaineering Association along with the liaison officer from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation. IMF functions as a clearing house for foreign expeditions and deputes a liaison officer to accompany foreign climbers.

All requests have to be forwarded to IMF for clearance. It is Recommended that all Concerned Departments should be Notified Six Months in Advance before the Start of an Expedition. Agency Organizing Peak Climbing and Mountaineering is Responsible for Rescue operations during emergencies and accidents and are looked after by the liaison officer.

Best Climbing Peaks in Sikkim

Mount Thingchenkhang (6010 m) and Jopuno (5603 m).

Thinchenkhang and Jopuno are two different peaks lying almost side by side standing tall South of Thansing Valley inside the Kanchenjunga National Park. One can view these two Peaks from Dzongri and as well from the Onglathang Valley while trekking to Goechala Pass. Thinchenkhang and Jopune graded in the ” D ” Category has been declared open for Peak Climbing and Mountaineering by the Government of Sikkim in 1990 as Alpine Expedition.

Of the five peaks opened for Peak Climbing and Mountaineering in Sikkim, Climbing Thinchenkhang has been the top priority of all mountaineers. Firstly, because this the tallest of the five peaks at 6010 m. Secondly, Peak Climbing on Thinchenkhang involves technical climbing through ice, snow and rock. As a result, Novice mountaineers fresh out of training prefer climbing this mountain as it needs all the knowledge of climbing an eight thousand meter peak. Third, climbing Thinchenkhang does not take up a lot of time and money. At a minimal cost one can experience the working of a full fledged expedition. Last of all, Mountaineering in Sikkim is at a budding stage. Therefore, it is raw, non commercial and not crowded, like in Nepal.

In order to summit these peaks one has to go through an agency Registered and recognized by the Tourism Department Government of Sikkim. Permits for minimum of Two Persons will be issued after paying the Peak fees as prescribed by the Tourism Department with approval from the Indian Mountaineering Association.

We are a recognized and registered Agency in Sikkim. With more than 25 Years of experience you can depend on us to make your Peak Climbing in Sikkim a success.

A Brief Itinerary for  Climbing Thinchenkhang in Sikkim

Day 01 : Arrive at Bagdogra Airport/New Jalpaiguri Rail Station. Meet Guide and Drive to Gangtok. Overnight Hotel.
Driving Time : 4 Hrs. Altitude :1760 m

Day 02 : Around Gangtok. Acclimatization Day. Overnight Hotel(B/B only).

Day 03 : Drive to Yuksom (Trek Head/1760 m/5 Hrs Drive). Overnight Lodge/Hotel.

Day 04 : Trek Starts. Trek to Bakhim / Tchoka (2970 m/13 Km/5-6 Hrs). Overnight Tents.

Day 05 : Trek to Dzongri (4030 m/9 Km/5-6 Hrs). Overnight Tents.

Day 06 :  Rest Day/Acclimatization Day in Dzongri. Take a side trek to Dzongrilla Pass. Overnight Tents.

Day 07: Trek to Lamunee (4164 m/11 Km/5-6 Hrs). Overnight Tents.

Day 08 : Trek to Goechala Pass and trek back to Lamunee. After Lunch trek up to Toriphuley (4304m) our Base Camp for Thinchenkhang Expedition in Sikkim. Overnight Tents.

Day 09 : Acclimatization Day. Trek up to Advance Base Camp I (4960 m/3 Km) with the Staff  & set up Camp. Overnight Tents.

Day 10 : Training Day and as well checking your equipment at Advance Base Camp. Overnight Tents.

Day 11 : Trek to Summit Camp (5416 m) with Climbing Equipment, Tents and Food. Overnight Tents.

Day 12 : Keep an Extra day just in case weather does not permit the team to Summit the peak. Overnight Tents.

Day 13 : Early Morning start the climb to Thinchenkhang Summit. Return Back to Advance Base Camp and a brief stay for Coffee or Tea trek back Toriphuley our Base Camp. Overnight Tents.

Day 14 : Trek Toriphulae to Kookrochoong. Overnight Tents.

Day 15 : Trek Kookrochoong  to Tchoka. Overnight Tents.

Day 16 : Trek Tchoka to Yuksom. Overnight Lodge / Hotel.

Day 17 : Drive to Kalimpong. Overnight Hotel / Home Stay.

Day 18 : Drive to Bagdogra Airport / NJP Rail Station for Final Departure. End of  Thinchenkhang Expedition in Sikkim.  Extension can be made to Darjeeling/ Nepal / Bhutan.

COST : US$3880/Person

Peak Fees Extra as applicable : US$500

Indian Nationals Kindly Inquire for quote in Indian Rupees

Climbing Frey Peak in Sikkim

Mount Frey also known as Frey Peak 5889 m tall in altitude is located in the Chaurikhang Valley in west Sikkim, India. Frey Peak falls inside the Kanchenjunga National Park and is a favorite peak to climb in Sikkim for budding mountaineers. One can view the Frey Peak from Dzongri Top. Frey peak has been declared a Trekking Peak by Sikkim Government in the Year 1990.

But, after having said that Frey Peak is not exactly a trekking peak and climber just cannot just trek up to the Summit of Frey Peak. Graded as AD+ a climber needs to have mountaineering skill to Climb Frey Peak. The climb to the top of Frey Peak involves climbing mostly on rock face, therefore one needs to have technical knowledge about mountaineering.

The route to Frey Peak Base Camp in Sikkim follows the route from Yuksom to Dzongri Ridge. From here the route then turns left towards Dzongrilla Pass and goes down into Bikhbari. Then the route slowly climbs towards the Himalayan Mountaineering Base Camp (HMI). HMI is a collection of small stone huts and a couple of big tin shades. This place is used by the HMI in Darjeeling to train aspiring climbers.

The route then goes past the HMI Base Camp and climbs up to the Rathong valley and dips down into the Chaurikhang Valley which is the Base Camp for Climbing Frey Peak.

Brief Itinerary for Frey Peak Expedition in Sikkim

Day 1:  Arrive at Bagdogra Airport.Drive to Gangtok(5 Hrs). Hotel(B/B only)

Day 2:  Acclimatization day in Gangtok. Hotel (B/B only)

Day 3:  Drive to Yuksom (1760 m/5 Hrs). Lodge

Day 4:  Trek to Bakhim (2975 m/11 Km). Camping

Day 5:  Trek Bakhim to Dzongri (3950 m/9 Km). Camping

Day 6:   Acclimatization Day.

Day 7:  Trek Dzongri to Chaurikhang (3860 m/ 13 Km). Camping

Day 8:  Trek to Advance Base Camp. Camping

Day 9:  Acclimatization Day. Recee of the Summit & Back to Advance Base Camp.  Camping

Day 10: Keep an extra Day in case of Bad weather

Day 11:  Summit Peak. Return to Chaurikhang. Camping

Day12:  Return Trek to Tchoka. Camping

Day13:  Return Trek to Yuksom.  Lodge

Day14:  Drive to Kalimpong. Hotel / Home Stay.

Day15:  Drive to Bagdogra Airport/NJP Rail Station/Nepal Border for Final Departure.

Frey Peak Expedition Cost : US$3450/Person

Peak Fees Extra as applicable : US$500

Indian Nationals Kindly enquire within for quotes in Indian Rupees

EXPEDITION COST INCLUDES :

  • Twin Share Hotel Accommodation in Gangtok in Standard Hotel including Breakfast.
  • Lodge accommodation – twin share in Yuksom with common washroom & Rest room including breakfasts.
  • Kanchenjunga National Park Fees (US$250 )
  • Fee to Liaison Officer (US$200)
  • Fees to Sherpa Climbing Guide
  • Insurance for Climbing Guides
  • Insurance for Support Team Members
  • Insurance for Pack Animals
  • Twin share tent with mattress during camping/trekking/Expedition.
  • Fully organized trek services with guide, porters, camping equipment.
  • All fixed three meals everyday during trekking/Camping/Expedition.
  • All road transport as per itinerary by jeep.
  • Service of an English speaking guide.
  • Entrance fees to monuments visited.
  • Trekking Permit & Inner Line Permits  for
  • Climbing Equipment
  •  a). Climbing Rope – 100m
  • b). Fixed Rope – 200m
  • c). Carabiner -35 pcs
  • d). Plain Carabiner –  16 pcs
  • e). Rock Pitons – 8 pcs
  • f). Ice Pitons – 15 pcs
  • g). Snow  Bar – 4 pcs.
  • h). Harness  Set
  • i). Jumar

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE :

  • Insurance for Climbing Member
  • Peak Fees (US$500 )
  • Sleeping bag; personal clothing/equipment.
  • Lunches and dinners during hotel stays.
  • Bottled or alcoholic drinks.
  • Tips, client insurance, evacuation costs.
  • Any expenses of personal nature.

For more Information do fill up the Inquiry form and write to us. We will furnish you with all relevant information regarding Peak Climbing in Sikkim. We can also customize the Itinerary as per your requirement.

Note: The above itinerary for Sikkim peak climbing is a sample, intended to give you a general idea of the likely trip schedule. Numerous factors such as weather, road conditions, physical ability of the participants etc. may dictate itinerary changes either before departure or while on the trail. We reserve the right to change this schedule in the interest of the trip participant’s safety, comfort and general well being.

(All relevant Terms & Conditions apply)

Frey Peak Expedition Cost : US$3450/Person

Thinchenkhang Expedition Cost : US$3880 per Person

Peak Fees Extra as applicable : US$500

Indian Nationals Kindly enquire within for quotes in Indian Rupees

EXPEDITION COST INCLUDES :

  • Twin Share Hotel Accommodation in Gangtok in Standard Hotel including Breakfast.
  • Lodge accommodation – twin share in Yuksom with common washroom & Rest room including breakfasts.
  • Kanchenjunga National Park Fees (US$250 )
  • Fee to Liaison Officer (US$200)
  • Fees to Sherpa Climbing Guide
  • Insurance for Climbing Guides
  • Insurance for Support Team Members
  • Insurance for Pack Animals
  • Twin share tent with mattress during camping/trekking/Expedition.
  • Fully organized trek services with guide, porters, camping equipment.
  • All fixed three meals everyday during trekking/Camping/Expedition.
  • All road transport as per itinerary by jeep.
  • Service of an English speaking guide.
  • Entrance fees to monuments visited.
  • Trekking Permit & Inner Line Permits  for
  • Climbing Equipment
  •  a). Climbing Rope – 100m
  • b). Fixed Rope – 200m
  • c). Carabiner -35 pcs
  • d). Plain Carabiner –  16 pcs
  • e). Rock Pitons – 8 pcs
  • f). Ice Pitons – 15 pcs
  • g). Snow  Bar – 4 pcs.
  • h). Harness  Set
  • i). Jumar

DOES NOT INCLUDE :

  • Insurance for Climbing Member
  • Peak Fees (US$500 )
  • Sleeping bag; personal clothing/equipment.
  • Lunches and dinners during hotel stays.
  • Bottled or alcoholic drinks.
  • Tips, client insurance, evacuation costs.
  • Any expenses of personal nature.

(All relevant Terms & Conditions apply)

 

 

 

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