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Peak climbing in Sikkim to some of the virgin peaks was opened for the purpose of Mountaineering in Sikkim to the outside world only in the year 2006.
Five peaks that are declared open for Peak Climbing and Mountaineering in Sikkim are Thinchenkhang (6010 m), Jopuno (5936 m) and Frey Peak (5889 m) in West Sikkim. Brumkhangse (5635 m) and Lama Wangden (5868 m) in North Sikkim close to the border with Tibet.
Of the five peaks, Climbing Thinchenkhang has remained a top priority for climbers, as this is the tallest among the five peaks and also, climbing this peak involves technical knowledge too.
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Peak Climbing and Mountaineering in Sikkim
Sikkim, nestled in the heart of the Eastern Himalayas, is a prime destination for peak climbing and mountaineering enthusiasts. With its towering peaks, pristine glaciers, and challenging terrain, Sikkim offers a wealth of opportunities for the adventurous and experienced mountaineers.
Sikkim opened four of it’s peaks for climbing and mountaineering only in the late 1990’s, of which Mt. Thinchenkhang in the Thansing Valley and Frey Peak in the Chaurikhang Valley is located in west Sikkim. While the two peaks, Mount Lama Wangden and Mt. Brumkhangse lie in Lachen and Yumthang Valley, in North Sikkim at the border with Tibet.
Among the four peaks, the most renowned peak in Sikkim for climbing is Mount Thinchenkhang standing tall at 6010 m, while the other three peaks are below 6000 m. The technical difficulty and high-altitude nature of these peaks make them a true test of skill and endurance for even the most seasoned climbers.
Mountaineering in Sikkim, however, is not without its challenges. The high altitude, unpredictable weather, and technical nature of the terrain require a high level of skill, experience, and preparation. Climbers must be well-acclimatized, equipped with the proper gear, and accompanied by skilled local guides and support teams to ensure a safe and successful expedition.
Despite the challenges, the rewards of peak climbing and mountaineering in Sikkim are immense. The breathtaking vistas, the sense of accomplishment, and the opportunity to immerse oneself in the rich cultural and natural heritage of the region make Sikkim a truly exceptional destination for the adventurous and the daring.
Brief History of Mountaineering in Sikkim
As per the records from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, Douglas W. Freshfield was the first European to explore & reach the base of Kanchenjunga from the Green Lake Basin in 1899.
Likewise, a German climbing team led by Paul Bauer made the first attempt to reach the summit of Kanchenjunga in 1929. But, it was Charles Evans who reached a few feet below the summit of Kanchenjunga in 1955 from the Nepal side. Followed by Major Prem Chand from the Indian Army who reached a few feet below the summit of Kanchenjunga in the Year 1977. Finally, an Indo-Japanese mountaineering team led by Hukam Singh and Yoshio Ogata conquered the Kanchenjunga in the Year 1991.
Mr. C.R.Cooke a British Climber was the First Climber to Conquer Mt. Kabru in the Year 1935. The pyramid Peak was first conquered in 1949 by a Swiss R. Dittert. A British A.M. Kallas, climbed the Paunhri in 1911. The summit of Siniolchu was first reached by a German in 1936. It was later again climbed by the famous Sikkimese Everester Sonam Gyatso. Pandim was climbed in 1993 by a team from the Sonam Gyatso Mountaineering Institute in Sikkim. Rathong was conquered by an Indian expedition in 1964.
Sikkim Peak Climbing-Peaks that are opened for Mountaineering
Government has opened the following peaks vide notification No.25/HOME/2006 dated 20/03/2006 issued by the Home Department, Government of Sikkim for the purpose of Mountaineering & Peak Climbing. These Peaks are declared Alpine Peaks and are Open for Alpine Expedition.
Name of the Peak | Location | Grade | |
1 | Freys Peaks(5830 m) | Chuarikhang valley – West Sikkim | AD+ |
2 | Mt.Thinchenkhang(6010 m) | Thansing Valley – West Sikkim | D |
3 | Mt.Jopuno(5936 m) | Thansing Valley – West Sikkim | D+ |
4 | Mt.Lama Lamani(5700 m) | Thansing Valley – West Sikkim | AD+ |
5 | Mt.Lama Wangden Lachen(5868 m) | Lachen Valley – North Sikkim | AD |
6 | Mt.Brumkhangse(5635 m) | Yumthang Valley – North Sikkim | D |
Under the Places of Worship (Special Provisions) Act 1991 and the State Government’s Notification No.59.Home/98 dated 26.10.1998, the following peaks are classified as Sacred
- Gabur Gangtsen
- Mt. Pauhunli
Following Royalty shall be levied for Sikkim Peak Climbing & Mountaineering |
For Foreign Mountaineering Team
- 1-4 members – US$500 per Team
- 1-8 members – US$700 per Team
- Thereafter US$75 for every additional member.
For Domestic Mountaineering Team
- 1-8 members – Rupee 15,000 per Team
- Thereafter Rupee 1500 for every additional member.
For local Mountaineering Teams
- 1-8 members – Rupee 3000 per Team
- Thereafter Rupee 300 for every additional member.
The following minimum Insurance Coverage is compulsory for all Peak Climbing and Mountaineering in Sikkim
- Expedition members – Rs.3,00,000 per person
- Camp Crews – Rs.1,00,000 per person
- Porters – Rs.50,000 per person
- Pack Animals – Rs.20,000 per animal
Number of Peak Climbing Groups in Sikkim allowed per Year
A total of 10 Mountaineering Teams (6 foreign and 4 domestic) shall be permitted per year. However, the Sikkim Government may issue additional permit additional to mountaineering teams, if such situation arises. Permits for the above mentioned peaks will be issued by the Home Department. The amount mentioned below has to be paid in Gangtok, Sikkim, after the permit is granted by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, New Delhi.
Best Season for Mountaineering and Peak Climbing in Sikkim
The best season for peak climbing and mountaineering in Sikkim is typically during the summer months, specifically from May to October.
Here’s a breakdown of the ideal seasons for peak climbing and mountaineering in Sikkim:
1. Spring (April to June):
This is the prime season for peak climbing and mountaineering in Sikkim. The weather is generally stable, with clear skies and moderate temperatures, making it an ideal time for technical climbing. The snowpack is in good condition, providing safe and reliable routes for ascents.
The four popular climbing peaks like Thinchenkhang in the Thansing Valley and the Frey Peak in the Chaurikhang Valley in West Sikkim, and Lama Wangden in Lachen and Mt.Brumkhangse (5635 m) Yumthang Valley in North Sikkim are often targeted during this season.
2. Summer (July to September):
The summer months in Sikkim can also be a good time for peak climbing and mountaineering, although the weather can be more unpredictable. Monsoon rains can sometimes create challenging conditions, with increased snowfall and the risk of avalanches. However, the summer months offer longer daylight hours, which can be advantageous for technical climbs. Some mountaineers prefer the summer season as it can be less crowded than the spring.
3. Autumn (October to November):
The autumn months in Sikkim can provide a second window for peak climbing and mountaineering. The weather is generally stable, with clear skies and cooler temperatures, which can be more comfortable for climbers. The snowpack is typically in good condition, and the risk of avalanches is lower compared to the summer months. However, the days are shorter, and the potential for early snowfall or storms increases as winter approaches.
It’s important to note that the weather and conditions in the Himalayan region can be highly unpredictable, and it’s essential to consult with experienced local guides and mountaineering outfitters to plan your expedition effectively. Additionally, proper acclimatization, equipment, and safety measures are crucial for a successful and safe peak climbing or mountaineering experience in Sikkim.
Permits for Peak Climbing and Mountaineering in Sikkim
In order to summit these peaks one has to go through an agency Registered and recognized by the Tourism Department Government of Sikkim. Permits for minimum of Two Persons will be issued after paying the Peak fees as prescribed by the Tourism Department with approval from the Indian Mountaineering Association.
Foreign Mountaineering teams will have to book the peak along with a peak fee minimum three months in advance. The Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) is the country’s apex body that helps in organizing/sponsoring mountaineering and Peak climbing in Sikkim.
It is mandatory for all peak climbing teams to take a liaison officer from the Sikkim Mountaineering Association along with the liaison officer from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation. IMF functions as a clearing house for foreign expeditions and deputes a liaison officer to accompany foreign climbers.
All requests have to be forwarded to IMF for clearance. It is Recommended that all Concerned Departments should be Notified Six Months in Advance before the Start of an Expedition. Agency Organizing Peak Climbing and Mountaineering is Responsible for Rescue operations during emergencies and accidents and are looked after by the liaison officer.
We are a recognized and registered Agency in Sikkim. With more than 25 Years of experience you can depend on us to make your Peak Climbing in Sikkim a success.
Best Climbing Peaks in Sikkim
Mount Thingchenkhang (6010 m).
Thinchenkhang and Jopuno are two different peaks lying almost side by side standing tall South of Thansing Valley inside the Kanchenjunga National Park. One can view these two Peaks from Dzongri and as well from the Onglathang Valley while trekking to Goechala Pass. Thinchenkhang and Jopune graded in the ” D ” Category has been declared open for Peak Climbing and Mountaineering by the Government of Sikkim in 1990 as Alpine Expedition.
Of the five peaks opened for Peak Climbing and Mountaineering in Sikkim, Climbing Thinchenkhang has been the top priority of all mountaineers. Firstly, because this the tallest of the five peaks at 6010 m. Secondly, Peak Climbing on Thinchenkhang involves technical climbing through ice, snow and rock. As a result, Novice mountaineers fresh out of training prefer climbing this mountain as it needs all the knowledge of climbing an eight thousand meter peak. Third, climbing Thinchenkhang does not take up a lot of time and money. At a minimal cost one can experience the working of a full fledged expedition. Last of all, Mountaineering in Sikkim is at a budding stage. Therefore, it is raw, non commercial and not crowded, like in Nepal.
A Brief Itinerary for Climbing Thinchenkhang in Sikkim
Day 01 : Arrive at Bagdogra Airport/New Jalpaiguri Rail Station. Meet Guide and Drive to Gangtok. Overnight Hotel.
Driving Time : 4 Hrs. Altitude :1760 m
Day 02 : Around Gangtok. Acclimatization Day. Overnight Hotel(B/B only).
Day 03 : Drive to Yuksom (Trek Head/1760 m/5 Hrs Drive). Overnight Lodge/Hotel.
Day 04 : Trek Starts. Trek to Bakhim / Tchoka (2970 m/13 Km/5-6 Hrs). Overnight Tents.
Day 05 : Trek to Dzongri (4030 m/9 Km/5-6 Hrs). Overnight Tents.
Day 06 : Rest Day/Acclimatization Day in Dzongri. Take a side trek to Dzongrilla Pass. Overnight Tents.
Day 07: Trek to Lamunee (4164 m/11 Km/5-6 Hrs). Overnight Tents.
Day 08 : Trek to Goechala Pass and trek back to Lamunee. After Lunch trek up to Toriphuley (4304m) our Base Camp for Thinchenkhang Expedition in Sikkim. Overnight Tents.
Day 09 : Acclimatization Day. Trek up to Advance Base Camp I (4960 m/3 Km) with the Staff & set up Camp. Overnight Tents.
Day 10 : Training Day and as well checking your equipment at Advance Base Camp. Overnight Tents.
Day 11 : Trek to Summit Camp (5416 m) with Climbing Equipment, Tents and Food. Overnight Tents.
Day 12 : Keep an Extra day just in case weather does not permit the team to Summit the peak. Overnight Tents.
Day 13 : Early Morning start the climb to Thinchenkhang Summit. Return Back to Advance Base Camp and a brief stay for Coffee or Tea trek back Toriphuley our Base Camp. Overnight Tents.
Day 14 : Trek Toriphulae to Kookrochoong. Overnight Tents.
Day 15 : Trek Kookrochoong to Tchoka. Overnight Tents.
Day 16 : Trek Tchoka to Yuksom. Overnight Lodge / Hotel.
Day 17 : Drive to Kalimpong. Overnight Hotel / Home Stay.
Day 18 : Drive to Bagdogra Airport / NJP Rail Station for Final Departure. End of Thinchenkhang Expedition in Sikkim. Extension can be made to Darjeeling/ Nepal / Bhutan.
COST : US$3880/Person
Peak Fees Extra as applicable : US$500 |
Indian Nationals Kindly Inquire for quote in Indian Rupees |
Climbing Frey Peak in Sikkim
Mount Frey also known as Frey Peak 5889 m tall in altitude is located in the Chaurikhang Valley in west Sikkim, India. Frey Peak falls inside the Kanchenjunga National Park and is a favorite peak to climb in Sikkim for budding mountaineers. One can view the Frey Peak from Dzongri Top. Frey peak has been declared a Trekking Peak by Sikkim Government in the Year 1990.
But, after having said that Frey Peak is not exactly a trekking peak and climber just cannot just trek up to the Summit of Frey Peak. Graded as AD+ a climber needs to have mountaineering skill to Climb Frey Peak. The climb to the top of Frey Peak involves climbing mostly on rock face, therefore one needs to have technical knowledge about mountaineering.
The route to Frey Peak Base Camp in Sikkim follows the route from Yuksom to Dzongri Ridge. From here the route then turns left towards Dzongrilla Pass and goes down into Bikhbari. Then the route slowly climbs towards the Himalayan Mountaineering Base Camp (HMI). HMI is a collection of small stone huts and a couple of big tin shades. This place is used by the HMI in Darjeeling to train aspiring climbers.
The route then goes past the HMI Base Camp and climbs up to the Rathong valley and dips down into the Chaurikhang Valley which is the Base Camp for Climbing Frey Peak.
Brief Itinerary for Frey Peak Expedition in Sikkim
Day 1: Arrive at Bagdogra Airport.Drive to Gangtok(5 Hrs). Hotel(B/B only)
Day 2: Acclimatization day in Gangtok. Hotel (B/B only)
Day 3: Drive to Yuksom (1760 m/5 Hrs). Lodge
Day 4: Trek to Bakhim (2975 m/11 Km). Camping
Day 5: Trek Bakhim to Dzongri (3950 m/9 Km). Camping
Day 6: Acclimatization Day.
Day 7: Trek Dzongri to Chaurikhang (3860 m/ 13 Km). Camping
Day 8: Trek to Advance Base Camp. Camping
Day 9: Acclimatization Day. Recee of the Summit & Back to Advance Base Camp. Camping
Day 10: Keep an extra Day in case of Bad weather
Day 11: Summit Peak. Return to Chaurikhang. Camping
Day12: Return Trek to Tchoka. Camping
Day13: Return Trek to Yuksom. Lodge
Day14: Drive to Kalimpong. Hotel / Home Stay.
Day15: Drive to Bagdogra Airport/NJP Rail Station/Nepal Border for Final Departure.
Frey Peak Expedition Cost : US$3450/Person
Peak Fees Extra as applicable : US$500 |
Indian Nationals Kindly enquire within for quotes in Indian Rupees |
Discover the Untamed Beauty of Sikkim: Brumkhangse Peak Trek
Embark on an unforgettable peak climbing in the heart of Sikkim’s untamed wilderness with our Expedition and Peak Climbing adventure to Mount Brumkhangse. Situated in the captivating North Sikkim region, the Brumkhangse Peak has been meticulously opened for exploration since 2005, offering a moderate-grade trekking peak that is delightfully isolated from the more popular peaks.
As you traverse the exquisite Lachung Valley, you’ll be treated to a mesmerizing display of nature’s grandeur. Feast your eyes on the breathtaking vistas of Eagle Peak, Pheling Peak, and other majestic summits that will leave you in awe. Immerse yourself in the opulence of the natural surroundings, where the unspoiled beauty of the trail will captivate your senses and ignite a sense of wonder.
The Brumkhangse peak climbing and expedition is not just a physical challenge but a spiritual journey, allowing you to connect with the raw power and serenity of the Himalayan landscape. Whether you’re an experienced mountaineer or a passionate adventurer, this trip promises to leave an indelible mark on your soul. Embark on this once-in-a-lifetime peak climbing opportunity and let the majesty of Sikkim’s peaks leave you forever changed.
Itinerary in Brief
Day 1: Arrive at Bagdogra Airport. Meet your Guide and drive to Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim.
Day 2: Acclimatization Day in Gangtok. Gangtok Sight seeing.
Day 3: After breakfast, Drive from Gangtok to Lachung ( 11o km/6 hours). Overnight Hotel.
Day 4: After Breakfast drive to Shiv Mandir, a short drive of 2 hours via Yumthang. Overnight camp at base camp at Shiv Mandir.
Day 5: Explore Brumkhangse Valley. After breakfast trek around the Brumkhangse Valley to acclimatize. Afternoon trek back to the base camp.
Day 6: Trekking and Brumkhangse Peak Climbing starts. Trek start to advance base camp. Overnight stay in tents
Day 7: Start climbing towards Brumkhangse Glacier to camp 1.
Day 8: Start climbing to Mount Brumkhangse, initially through the Glacier until you reach a prominent coloumn at c.5330m. On the left of this col is the actual summit of Brumkhangse South -5635 m. Descend back to Camp 1 for the night.
Day 9: Trek Back to Shiv Mandir, then drive back to Lachung.
Day 10: Drive back to Gangtok.
Day 11: Drive Back to Bagdogra Airport for Final Departure. End of the Brumkhangse Peak Climbing in Sikkim.
EXPEDITION COST INCLUDES :
- Twin Share Hotel Accommodation in Gangtok in Standard Hotel including Breakfast.
- Lodge accommodation – twin share in Yuksom with common washroom & Rest room including breakfasts.
- Kanchenjunga National Park Fees (US$250 )
- Fee to Liaison Officer (US$200)
- Fees to Sherpa Climbing Guide
- Insurance for Climbing Guides
- Insurance for Support Team Members
- Insurance for Pack Animals
- Twin share tent with mattress during camping/trekking/Expedition.
- Fully organized trek services with guide, porters, camping equipment.
- All fixed three meals everyday during trekking/Camping/Expedition.
- All road transport as per itinerary by jeep.
- Service of an English speaking guide.
- Entrance fees to monuments visited.
- Trekking Permit & Inner Line Permits for
- Climbing Equipment
- a). Climbing Rope – 100m
- b). Fixed Rope – 200m
- c). Carabiner -35 pcs
- d). Plain Carabiner – 16 pcs
- e). Rock Pitons – 8 pcs
- f). Ice Pitons – 15 pcs
- g). Snow Bar – 4 pcs.
- h). Harness Set
- i). Jumar
COST DOES NOT INCLUDE :
- Insurance for Climbing Member
- Peak Fees (US$500 )
- Sleeping bag; personal clothing/equipment.
- Lunches and dinners during hotel stays.
- Bottled or alcoholic drinks.
- Tips, client insurance, evacuation costs.
- Any expenses of personal nature.
For more Information do fill up the Inquiry form and write to us. We will furnish you with all relevant information regarding Peak Climbing in Sikkim. We can also customize the Itinerary as per your requirement.
Note: The above itinerary for Sikkim peak climbing is a sample, intended to give you a general idea of the likely trip schedule. Numerous factors such as weather, road conditions, physical ability of the participants etc. may dictate itinerary changes either before departure or while on the trail. We reserve the right to change this schedule in the interest of the trip participant’s safety, comfort and general well being.
(All relevant Terms & Conditions apply)
Frey Peak Expedition Cost : US$3450/Person
Thinchenkhang Expedition Cost : US$3880 per Person Peak Fees Extra as applicable : US$500 |
Indian Nationals Kindly enquire within for quotes in Indian Rupees |
EXPEDITION COST INCLUDES :
- Twin Share Hotel Accommodation in Gangtok in Standard Hotel including Breakfast.
- Lodge accommodation – twin share in Yuksom with common washroom & Rest room including breakfasts.
- Kanchenjunga National Park Fees (US$250 )
- Fee to Liaison Officer (US$200)
- Fees to Sherpa Climbing Guide
- Insurance for Climbing Guides
- Insurance for Support Team Members
- Insurance for Pack Animals
- Twin share tent with mattress during camping/trekking/Expedition.
- Fully organized trek services with guide, porters, camping equipment.
- All fixed three meals everyday during trekking/Camping/Expedition.
- All road transport as per itinerary by jeep.
- Service of an English speaking guide.
- Entrance fees to monuments visited.
- Trekking Permit & Inner Line Permits for
- Climbing Equipment
- a). Climbing Rope – 100m
- b). Fixed Rope – 200m
- c). Carabiner -35 pcs
- d). Plain Carabiner – 16 pcs
- e). Rock Pitons – 8 pcs
- f). Ice Pitons – 15 pcs
- g). Snow Bar – 4 pcs.
- h). Harness Set
- i). Jumar
DOES NOT INCLUDE :
- Insurance for Climbing Member
- Peak Fees (US$500 )
- Sleeping bag; personal clothing/equipment.
- Lunches and dinners during hotel stays.
- Bottled or alcoholic drinks.
- Tips, client insurance, evacuation costs.
- Any expenses of personal nature.
(All relevant Terms & Conditions apply)
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