Baruntse Expedition in the remote Khumbu Region in Eastern Nepal
Climbing Baruntse a 7162m peak demands more of physical strength and some technical skill. Climbing Baruntse is easier because of which the success rate of expedition to Baruntse is higher as compared to other similiar peaks in the Nepal Himalayas. Climbing Baruntse provides an opportunity to those with previous climbing experience for a full blown expedition to a seven thousand metre peak in the great Himalayas. While climbing Baruntse from the west col provides some significant challenges, the south east ridge on the other hand is straight forward on ice and snow with some sections corniced.
Baruntse a 7162m peak lies in the heart of the Everest Region between Everest and Makalu in Khumbu region in eastern Nepal. This 7000m peak is topped by four peaks and four ridges and is surrounded by Imja Glacier to the North west, Barun Glacier to the east and the Hunku Glacier to the south. The First expedition to Baruntse was succefully done on 30th.May 1954 by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow of the New Zealand Expedition Team. This group summited Baruntse by the South-East Ridge. Since then the success rate of climbing Baruntse from this route is higher as compared to other peaks of the same height.
Other well known Mountains that can be seen while Climbing Baruntse are Makalu, Everest, Lhotse, Chamlang and Mera which is a trekking Peak.
There are two options for Climbing Baruntse – the first option is to climb Mera Peak, which is a trekking Peak and then proceed on to climb Baruntse. we call this the Great Himalayan Traverse. Mera Peak is 6000m trekking peak though some technical knowledge is required. This can help you train up for the Ascent of Baruntse and also help you acclimitize. The second option is to simply just climb Baruntse.
Baruntse Climbing Route – South East Ridge the Normal Route
While Climbing Baruntse, the South East Ridge is the most common and safest route that every expedition team to Baruntse takes. This route was first opened by the New Zealand Expedition Team on 30th.May 1950 to scale Baruntse. Ever since, the South East Ridge of Baruntse which is a straight forward climb mainly on snow with a few fifty degree steep sections to cross is used. There is also a prominent ice cliff at 7000m to be climbed near the summit. There are a few corniced sections at the upper ridge near the summit but not much evidence of avalanche on the lower slopes of Baruntse. Fixed ropes are put in the steeper sections to safe guard the climbers, not to forget the cornices which needs to be traversed too.
Just a few kilometres up the glacier at the entrance to the valley and which gives access to the East Col lies the Baruntse Base Camp at 5250m. From here it is easy to cross the East Col (6146m) and reach the lower Barun Glacier which lies just below the South East Ridge and this makes it suitable for an Advanced Base Camp. By setting up another Camp a little further up at 6350m makes it even more appropriate to attempt the Summit of Baruntse.
When is the best time to Climb Baruntse ?
Successful ascents to Baruntse has been made during Spring when the conditions for climbing Baruntse are favourable with some amount of snow and is found to be safe at this time.
Clothing and Personal Equipment List for Baruntse Expedition to be brought by the participant
- Summit pack with at least 65 litre capacity which can also be used as day pack while on the trek.
- Large robust canvas bag/holdall or kit bag (for transporting gear on trail)
- Small duffle bag with lock (for storing excess gear & travel clothes in hotel)
- Good four season sleeping bag (0Degrees to -10Degrees Celcius)
- 1 set of Windproof/waterproof Jacket
- 1 Down jacket with hood
- 1 Mid to heavy weight Fleece Jacket
- 1 Fleece vest
- 1 Mid layer fleece
- 1 Mid weight Fleece pants
- 2 Thermal underwear tops & bottoms
- A Pair of insulated mitts
- A Pair of thermal gloves
- 1 Pair overmitts
- 4 pairs of thick woollen socks
- 4 pairs of thin polypropylene socks/liners
- Climbing Boots
- Good quality one Pair gaiters
- Trekking Boots
- A pair of lightweight sandals (Keen )
- Trekking pole(s)
- Thermos (small, stainless steel)
- Climbing harness
- Ice Axe
- Karabiners ( Locking)
- Climbing Helmet
- 1 Warm wool/fleece Hat
- 1 Balaclava (wool/fleece)
- Glacier goggles with side covers
- 1 Sun hat
- 2 One litre water bottles
- 1 Whistle
- 1 Head lamp with spare batterieis
- Trekking clothes (e.g., 2 shorts, 2 T-shirts, 1 trousers/synthetic pants, etc.)
- 2 tubes Suncreen (minimum 40 SPF)
- Vaseline / Petroleum Jelly for chaffed lips
- Personal first aid kit
- Hand sanitizer, etc.
- 2 Bottles water purification tabs
Climbing Leader: Mr.Tashi Sherpa – Has the following to his credentials :
- Everest- Three Times (2013, 2018 & 2019)
- K2 (Pakistan)- 1Time (2014)
- Kanchenjunga- 2Times (2011 & 2014)
- Dhaulagiri – 1 Time(2016)
- Lhotse – 2 Times(2012 & 2013)
- Manaslu – 2Times ( 2016 & 2017)
- Makalu – 2Times (2016 & 2017)
- annapurna – 2019
- Cho-oyu – 2014
- Yalungkhang – 2014
- Baruntse – 5Times
- Mera Peak – 7 Times
- Nanga Parvat ( India )– 1 Time
- Thinchenkhang (Sikkim – India) – 4Times
Baruntse Expedition and Mera Peak climbing Itinerary – The Great Himalayan Traverse
- Type of Trek : Moderate to Rigorous/Techical
- Minimum No. of Participants : 2 Pax.
- Total No. of Days : 26 Days.
- Style of Trek: Lodge/Camping/Expedition.
- Starting Point: Kathmandu
- Ending Point : Kathmandu
- Best Season : April – June & September & October.
- Availibility : Only private Expedition can be arranged for a minimum of two persons on request on a date of your choice.
ITINERARY FOR BARUNTSE AND MERA PEAK CLIMBING
Day 1 : Drive to Salleri( 2360 ). Salleri is a village at the foothills to the entrance of Everest Region. Hotel.
Day 2 : Drive to Bung village(1800m). Bung is the Entry to Makalu Barun National Park. Hotel.
Day 3 : Trek to Khiraule(2460m). Visit Chambaling Monastery. Overnight Lodge/Camp.
Day 4 : Trek to Cholemkharka(3580m). This beautiful small village is known for its hill farming and yak pastures. Overnight Lodge/Camp.
Day 5: Rest and acclimitization day. Explore the village and hike up to 4,000m. Overnight Lodge/ Camp.
Day 6: Trek to Khola Kharka(4250m) through the famous Panch Pokhari (Lakes). Overnight Lodge/Camp.
Day 7: Trek to Kothey(3500m) a pretty mountain village in the midst of the forest. Overnight Lodge.
Day 8: Trek to Thagnag(4300m). Stunning scenery on the east side of Mera Peak. Sleep in Teahouse.
Day 9: Trek to Khare(5000m). An alpine village high in the Himalayas which is the starting point for Mera La Pass. Overnight Lodge.
Day 10 : Rest day at Khare. Today is the day for acclimitization, Checking of equipments and fixed rope training. Afternoon explore the surrounding area. Overnight Lodge.
Day 11: Climb to Mera Peak High Camp(5768m). From high Camp get bask in the views of Everest and other peaks. Overnight Camp.
Day 12: Summit Mera Peak (6,476m). Descend and trek to Kongma Dingma (4850m) in the remote Hongu Valley. Overnight Camp.
Day 13: A Short Trek to Setho Pokhari (5003m). Get amazed by the massive peak of Mt.Chamlang from this beautiful Hongu Valley. Overnight Camp.
Day 14: Trek to Baruntse Basecamp (5380metres). Baruntse Base Camp is a large bowl at the base of Mt.Baruntse. Overnight Camp.
Day 15: Rest & Acclimatization. A Day for the Sherpa’s to offer the prayer for the safety of all participants. Overnight Camp.
Day 16: Fixed rope training on the Glacier near Baruntse Basecamp. Overnight Camp.
Day 17: Climb to camp I on the West Col (6126metres) by using fixed ropes. You can get the stunning view of Baruntse climbing route and Mt. Makalu in the distance.
Day 18: A short climb to camp II (6350m) at the base of the Baruntse Ridge. Overnight Camp.
Day 19: Summit ascent using fixed ropes (7129m).
Day 22: Extra day just in case weather does not favour summiting the Peak. Return to basecamp.
Day 20: Return to basecamp. Rest for a while & pack up.
Day 21: Trek to the base of Amphu Labtsa Pass (5450m) for the night through the scenic Panch Pokhari valley. Overnight Camp.
Day 22: Trek to Chukkung(4750m) by Crossing the Amphu Labtsa pass (5845m). Overnight Lodge.
Day 23: Trek to Pangboche village(3985m). Overnight Lodge.
Day 24: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3450m). A big village which is the capital of Khumbu Region. Ovrnight Lodge.
Day 25: Trek to Lukla(2840m). Overnight Lodge.
Day 26: Take a morning flight back to Kathmandu. End of Baruntse Climbing Expedition in Nepal.
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Baruntse Expedition and Mera Peak Climbing Cost :
- Single Pax – US$9100 for a single Person.
- 2Pax – 4 Pax – US$7600
- 5Pax – 8Pax – US$7000
- Cost till the Baruntse Base Camp – US$4500 / Pax (Trekking only).
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ONLY BARUNTSE CLIMBING ITINERARY
Day 1: Fly to Lukla (2840m/30minutes flight). Trek to Phakding (2650m). Overnight Lodge.
Day 2: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3450m) capital of the Khumbu Region. Overnight Lodge.
Day 3: Rest and acclimitization day. Trek to the Everest View Hotel for views of Everest or Trek to the small village of Khundae and Khumjung. Return trek to Namche Bazaar. Overnight Lodge.
Day 4: Trek to Tengboche (3985m). Visit the famous Tengboche Monastery. Enjoy the beautiful scenery created by Mt. Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Lhotse, Nuptse and Mt.Everest. Overnight Lodge.
Day 5: Trek to Dingboche (4410m). Dingboche lies in a valley surrounded by the mighty and beautiful views of Ama Dablam, Island Peak and other smaller peaks of the Everest Range. Overnight Lodge.
Day 6: A short and easy trek to the village of Chukung (4750m). Beautiful views of Ama Dablam and Lhotse south face are visible from Chukung. Overnight Lodge.
Day 7: Trek to Amphu Labtsa High Camp (5213) at the foot of Amphu Labtsa pass. Overnight Camp.
Day 8: Rest and acclimatization in Amphu Labtsa High Camp. Overnight Camp. Day 9: Cross Amphu Labtsa Pass (5845m) descend to Panch Pokhari (5274m) and set up Camp here for the night. You get amazing views of the everest range from here.
Day 10: Trek to Baruntse basecamp (5380m). Basecamp is in a large bowl at the base of Baruntse. Overnight Camp.
Day 11: Rest & Acclimatization Day. Overnight Camp.
Day 12: Fixed rope and Glacier training on small ice walls near Baruntse Base camp. Overnight Camp.
Day 13: Using fixed rope Climb upto camp 1 on the West Col (6126metres) and set up Camp. Enjoy the Stunning views of Baruntse climbing route and magnificient Mt.Makalu near by.
Day 14: A short climb to camp II (6350m) which lies at the base of Baruntse Ridge and set up camp. For the night.
Day 15: Summit attempt using fixed ropes (7129m).
Day 16: Keep an Extra day just in case the weather does not permit for summit attempt. Return to basecamp.
Day 17: Return to basecamp. Rest and pack up. Overnight Camp.
Day 18 : Trek Back through the scenic Panch Pokhari valley to the base of Amphu Labtsa pass (5450m). Overnight Camp.
Day 19: Trek over the Amphu Labtsa pass (5845m) to Chukung (4750m). Overnight Lodge.
Day 20: Trek back to Pangboche (3985m). Overnight Lodge.
Day 21: Trek back to Namche Bazaar (3440m). Overnight Lodge.
Day 22: Trek Back to Lukla ( 2840m). Overnight Lodge.
Day 23: Take a morning flight back to Kathmandu. End of Baruntse Climbing in Nepal.
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ONLY BARUNTSE CLIMBING COST : US$8150 per person
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TOUR COST INCLUDES :
- Twin Share Hotel Accommodation in Lodges.
- National Park Fees
- Experienced Sherpa Climbing Guide
- Climbing Equipments
d).Plain Carabiner – 16 Nos.
e).Rock Pitons – 8 Nos.
f).Ice Pitons – 15Nos.
g).Snow Bar – 4 Nos.
- Twin share tent with mattress during camping/trekking/Expedition.
- Fully organized trek/Expedition services with guide, porters, camping equipment.
- All fixed three meals everyday during trekking/Camping/Expedition.
- All road transport as per itinerary by jeep.
- Service of an English speaking guide.
- Entrance fees to National Park
- Peak Fees
- Garbage Fees
- Trekkers Information Monitoring system Fees.
DOES NOT INCLUDE :
- Insurance for Climbing Member
- Flight Fare( Lukla to Kathmandu)
- Sleeping bag; personal clothing/equipment.
- Lunches and dinners during hotel stays.
- Bottled or alcoholic drinks.
- Tips, client insurance, evacuation costs.
- Any expenses of personal nature.
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Note: The above itinerary is a sample,intended to give you a general idea of the likely trip schedule. Likewise, numerous factors such as weather, road conditions, physical ability of the participants, etc. may dictate itinerary changes either before departure or while on the trail. Therefore, we reserve the right to change this schedule in the interest of the trip participant’s safety, comfort and general well being.
Recomendation: The trek is strenous and demands good physical form. Hence, a physical fitness check-up is recomended.
(All relevant Terms & Conditions apply)