Island Peak Climbing with Everest Base Camp Trek through Gokyo Ri

Island Peak lesser known as Imja Tse is a 6189m tall trekking Peak in Nepal first climbed by a British Everest Expediton Team in the year 1956. Island Peak Climbing is also a straight forward climb to the top and a person with little or no knowledge about mountaineering is also eligible for Island Peak Expedition.

Climbing Island Peak can be great adventure for amatuer  mountaineers and as well for seasoned climbers too. Graded in the Alpine PD+ category it can be surmised that Island Peak Climbing is not an easy task and the climber has to be physical fit to undergo this expedition. But after having said that, it can be easily said that Island Peak is a perfect peak to start your mountaineering adventure.

Since the climbing technics and the terrain resemble that of a taller mountain, climbing Island Peak can be an introduction to climbing higher mountains in the near future. The stunning view of Everest , Lhotse , and other peaks from the summit of Island Peak makes this climb worth it. Because of this  reason Island Peak is amongst the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal.

Island Peak Climbing with a trek to Everest Base Camp is a Tea House trek with accommodation in lodges run by local families. Except for the last three climbing days where accommodation will be Tents and cooked food will be provided by our kitchen staff.

THE HEAD WALL ON THE ISLAND PEAK TRAIL

The headwall on Island Peak trail looks daunting from far, but is actually not very steep. Once on the wall there are plenty of places to rest and stand on ledges. So therefore try to climb the route with your crampons points and axe, rather than hanging on the rope. On the headwall, it will also be necessary to use a jumar and a safety karabiner attached to your harness to ascend, and a descender to abseil back down again. This is not the place to abseil for the first time, so please make sure you have gained some training and practise beforehand. The abseil is on a single line and you will be completely self-reliant.

The crevasses on the Island Peak Climbing route are quite manageable and not too wide, but crossing ladders for some climbers can be a disconcerting experience. But, there are handrails attached to snow stakes in the ground for support. The best option is to walk across with the crampons placed across the rungs of the ladder, while, some people choose to go on hands and knees.

ISLAND PEAK ROUTE

The trail to Island Peak follows the same path as the Everest Base Camp Trek till Dingboche. From Dingboche the trail diverts towards Chukung and from Chukung it is good four hours trek to the Island Peak Base Camp and the entire trail from Dingboche to Island Base Camp is almost flat and easy.

How Difficult is it to Climb Island Peak ?

Island Peak has been designated as a trekking Peak by the Government of Nepal and Climbing Island Peak is comparitively easy as compared to other Trekking Peaks in Nepal. Having said that it is imperative that climbing Island Peak needs technical knowledge. Therefore, mountaineering skill is an added bonus to climb this 6189m peak in the Imja Valley.

There are two options for Island Peak Climbing. First option is to start the climb early in the morning from the Island Peak Base Camp, summit the peak and return back to Base Camp. The second option is to trek till Island Peak High Camp and set up camp. Next morning Trek to the summit of Island Peak and climb down to Base Camp.

But setting up camp at High Camp can have problems with water availibity and also the problems of sleeping at higher altitudes. Due to these reasons Island Peak Climbing usually starts from the Base Camp.

Island Peak Base camp to high camp is basically a hike up but there are rocky steps just above high camp and these require some strenuous climbing. Trekking through the Glacier begins from here and proceeds up to a steep snow and ice slope. Fixed ropes are usually set up for the strenuous ascent of about 100 metres to the summit of Island Peak. The last 100m climb to the summit is somewhat difficult due to steep climbing.

Can you see Mount Everest from the Island Peak ?

You can see the peak of Mount Everest as the overall view of Everest will be blocked by the wall of Nuptse. Seen from the Island Peak Summit, the panoramic views of the Himalayan giants are the peaks of Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) to the north. While, the views of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Ama Dablam in the south make up the 360 panorama.

Cost of climbing Permit for Island Peak Climbing 

The Cost of the Permit Depends upon the season. Given below are the Cost of the Climbing Permit

• • March to May – Spring Season – US$350 ( For a group of four Persons)
  • Thereafter  it is US$40 per Person
  • September  to  November – Autumn Season – US$125
  • June  to August – Monsoon Season – US$70.
  • December – February – Winter Season – US$70/Person

CLIMBING EXPERIENCE NEEDED FOR ISLAND PEAK 

Previous  mountaineering experience is important and necessary for Climbing Island Peak. The use of Crampons and Knowing how to walk safely with them, and using an ice axe correctly while tying into a harness and onto a man rope are important skills to have. Walking safely on a man rope on glaciated ground is all part of the experience, but if you have previous experience it is a welcome addition. Our guides will teach you and guide you, so make it known to the guide the level of your experience.

ACCOMMODATION IN ISLAND PEAK  BASE CAMP

Twin Share Accommodation in Tents will be in Island Peak base camp and Lobuche Base Camp. Bring a 4 season down sleeping bag with thermal liners and also a good quality sleeping mat for use in the tents.  Other than the Base Camps, Lodge accommodation on twin share basis will be provided. These lodges have WIFI so communication will not be a problem.

MEALS AT ISLAND PEAK BASE CAMP 

All meals will be provided during the stay at Island Peak Base Camp and Lobuche Base Camp and Advance Camp before the summit prepared by the cooks in the camps, and which is included in the cost.

PERSONAL EQUIPMENTS FOR CLIMBING

• Large Rucksack or duffle bag ~80L (for a porter to carry)
• Medium daypack ~40L to becarried by you
• SHELL – Top and bottoms
• INSULATION – Warm layered system to keep you warm, down jacket for summit day, sun hat and warm hat
• BASE LAYER – one or two thin layers to wick away sweat and to strip down to when it gets hot
• Crampon compatible boots,
• trekking shoes and base camp shoes
• Crampons,
• Ice axe,
• Alpine harness,
• Descender,
• Jumar,
• 4 screwgate karabiners,
• helmet,
• 2 x 120cm slings,
• Trekking poles
• SLEEPING – 4 to 5 season sleeping bag
• EATING/DRINKING – Water bottles & favorite snacks for during the day, insulated cup, flask
• WASH KIT AND MEDICAL KIT – To allow you to wash and manage minor first aid situations
• ADDITIONAL – Sunglasses, suncream, lipsalve , headtorch

RENTAL ITEMS

The above given items are available for rent in Kathmandu and also in Chukung or Island Base Camp.

• Mountaineering Harness
• Descender,
• jumar,
• Karabiners,
• slings
• Crampons
• Walking or Ice Axe
• Plastic boots or double mountaineering can be rented from the village in Chukkung.

ADDITIONAL KIT INFO

Climbing Boots need to be of a type that will allow crampons to be fitted, also boots need to be warm and should fit your feet well so that you are comfortable in it. For Island Peak and Lobuche you will need boots graded at least B1 for crampon use. If you are planning on doing more mountaineering in the future on higher or colder routes it may be worth investing in B2 hybrid or B3 rigid Plastic boots both of which will also be suitable for Island Peak. Full 8000m triple boots are not needed for this climb but could be used if you already have them.

EMERGENCY AND EVACUATION

Helicopter evacuations are the common way of dealing with an emergency in Nepal , and it is important to have travel insurance in place and to be clear on your destination and what you are doing to the insurance company. In the event of an emergency the initial job of moving a casualty will be the responsibility of the team itself and the guide and porters and anybody else nearby. The task will be to move the casualty to the nearest safe place and then to a point where an evacuation can be made. On a Himalayan peak this could be some distance and take some time. Bad weather is the most common reason for delaying helicopter assistance so it’s important to acknowledge that there is a requirement for self-sufficiency and self-management in the mountains.

ISLAND PEAK  SUPPORT TEAM

The Island Peak  & Lobuche East Peak climbing will be supported by an experienced Climbing Guide having immence experience climbing the mountains in the Himalayas. In this case Tashi Sherpa will be the main Climbing Guide and he has the following to his credentials.

Climbing Leader : Mr.Tashi Sherpa – Has the following to his credentials :

• Everest- Three Times (2013, 2018, 2019 & 2021)
• K2 (Pakistan)- 1Time (2014)
• Kanchenjunga- 2Times (2011 & 2014)
• Amadablam – (2021)
• Dhaulagiri – 1 Time(2016)
• Lhotse – 2 Times(2012 & 2013)
• Manaslu – 2Times ( 2016 & 2017)
• Makalu – 2Times (2016 & 2017)
• Annapurna – 2019
• Cho-oyu – 2014
• Yalungkhang – 2014
• Baruntse – 5Times
• Mera Peak – 7 Times
• Nanga Parvat ( India )– 1 Time
• Thinchenkhang (Sikkim – India) – 4Times

Besides Porters will be there to carry the Baggage, Tents & Climbing Equipments.

In the Khumbu region most of the Lodges have WIFI so communication will not be a problem. You will travel with our qualified, time proven, guides who not only lead trekking groups but are experienced in high altitude expeditions.

We provide insurance cover for all of our Sherpa guides and local staff in the event of an accident or need for repatriation.

TRIP FACTS :

• Type of Trek: Lodge / Tea House Trek
• Duration: 18 Days.
• Trekking Days: 17 Days.
• Trek Grade: Moderate to Difficult.
• Maximum Hiking Altitude: 6190m (Island Peak).
• Maximum Sleeping Altitude:
• Starting & Ending Point : Kathmandu.
• Availibility: Only Private Trek and Climbing.
• Best Season: March to June & September to December.
• Climate: Days are normally warm. Nights can at times be (general) very cold and in winter even below the freezing point. Monsoon showers in summer (heaviest in July, August) and sometimes even in spring and autumn.
• Availability: Customized private Trips are arranged for a minimum of Four persons on request on a date of your choice.No Group Departure Dates are available.
  Please plan your arrival in Kathmandu two days prior to the trek start date.

ISLAND PEAK CLIMBING with EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK ITINERARY
Day 1:   Fly Kathmandu to Lukla (2800m). Trek to Phakding (2652m/ 8 kms 3 hours). Overnight Lodge.
Day 2:   Trek to Namche Bazaar (3440m / 12 kms 5 hours). Overnight Lodge.
Day 3:   Rest and acclimatization day with optional hikes around Namche.
Overnight Lodge.
Day 4:   Trek to Dole (4000m). Overnight Lodge.
Day 5:   Trek to Machharma (4400m). Overnight Lodge.
Day 6:   Trek to Gokyo (4750m). Overnight Lodge.
Day 7:   Trek to Thangna (4600m) Via Gokyo-Ri (5350m). Overnight Lodge.
Day 8:   Trek to Dzongla (4600m) Via Cho-La pass (5400m). Overnight Lodge.
Day 9:   Trek to Gorakshep (5180m). Trek further on to Everest Base Camp. Return Trek to Gorakshep . Trek to Everest Base Camp. Return Back to Gorakshep. Overnight Lodge.
Day10:   Hike to Kalapathar(5550m)-Trek to Lobuche(4910m). Overnoght Lodge.
Day11:   Climbing Portion:
Trek to Chukhung (4410m). Afternoon meet climbing Instructor and Guides, briefing, equipment check, AMS lecture. Overnight Lodge.
Day12:   Trek to Island Peak Base Camp. Overnight Camp.
Day13:   Summit day. Start at 2 a.m. Return to Base Camp.
Rest in Island peak Base Camp. (Incase for bad weather).
Day14:   Island Peak Summit (6190m) back to base camp.
Summit day. Start at 2 a.m. Return to Base Camp.
Day15:   Trek to down to Pangboche. Overnight Lodge.
Day16:   Trek to Namche (4410m). Overnight Lodge.
Day17:   Trek to Lukla (3800m). Overnight Lodge.
Day18:   Fly Back to Kathmandu. End of  Island Peak Climbing Trekking.

• COSTS : US$2200 per Person
• Peak Fees ( Extra as applicable )
• • • March to May – Spring Season – US$350 ( For a group of four Persons)
    • Thereafter  it is US$40 per Person
    • September  to  November – Autumn Season – US$125
    • June  to August – Monsoon Season – US$70.
    • December – February – Winter Season – US$70/PersonPeak Fees  Extra as applicable
• Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu Airfare : US$328/person
• Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu Airfare for Indian Nationals : IRs.13,000/ person
• Airfare is Extra as applicable & is subject to change without prior notice.
• Indian Nationals Kindly enquire within for quotes in Indian Rupees.

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COST INCLUDES:

• Twin Share Accommodation in Lodges including all Meals
• Twin Share Accommodation in Tents at Island Peak Base Camp
• Trekking permits, National Park fees.
• Trek arrangements with tents, cook and porter/s.
• NMA Registered Climbing Guide for trek and climbing.
• Equipment Fees for climbing guide.
• Group climbing equipment (rope, pitons, snow bars, etc.).
• Guide/porter insurance costs.
• Garbage deposit ($250 per group) with NMA.

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE:

• Peak Permit,
• Any services in Kathmandu (hotels, tours, etc.).
• Sleeping bags (can be hired in Kathmandu).
• Personal climbing equipment (ice-axe, crampons, harness, etc).
• Bottled/alcoholic drinks, tips and personal expenses.
• Client insurance, evacuation costs (if any).
• Airport tax, tips and expenses of a personal nature.
• Domestic air-fare (Ktm/Lukla/ktm).

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Our trek price includes basic rooms in local trekkers lodges which have simple 2 bedded rooms with common toilets/showers. In some places like Lukla, Namche and Khumjung some newly upgraded lodges have rooms with attached toilets-showers but this will cost extra (about US$ 20-30 per room per night). Some lodges now offer even better rooms but can cost even more.
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Note: The above itinerary is a sample,intended to give you a general idea of the likely trip schedule. Numerous factors such as weather, road conditions, physical ability of the participants etc. may dictate itinerary changes either before departure or while on the trail. We reserve the right to change this schedule in the interest of the trip participants’ safety, comfort and general well being.

(All relevant Terms & Conditions apply).